The fact
that the photographs we see of models in magazines and on billboards are
usually digitally-enhanced is a societal norm we have come to accept. However,
in France, this will no longer be the case. To eliminate misleading promotions,
French advertisers will be fined for editing the content of the model without
indicating that the image has been digitally altered in accordance with the new
law introduced in September 2017.
The cost
of refusing to add the warning "photographie retouchée" label on
edited images could be fined €37,500 (£33,000) or even 30 % of the ad
produce price (BBC.)
France’s
government believes that this new rule
will decrease the number of too skinny models in fashion campaigns. The Health Minister, Marisol Touraine, explained in May 2017, when
the ruling was announced: "Exposing young people to normative and
unrealistic images of bodies leads to a sense of self-depreciation and poor
self-esteem that can impact health-related behavior." Source
I have to
admit that I am truly glad of those new changes in fashion and the beauty industry because finally the real natural
beauty will be promoted more. Moreover, the topic is important for me for two
reasons:
- As a 27-year-old young woman, I grew up in 00’s when an anorectic body shape was promoted in the most (models died suffering from anorexia, you can just Google their photos: 2005 -Ana Carolina Reston, 2006 -Luisel Ramos, 2007 - Hila Elmalich, 2010 - Isabelle Caro) so we were exposed to constant attack by information about the unreal and unhealthy ideal of beauty. That has been now changing and as grownups we are wiser and able to choose what to believe in.
But is it common
knowledge that we are still living in times when we see “impossible beautiful”
bodies, white smiles, luxurious items and perfect housewives almost everywhere? The longer we
are surrounded by that, the stronger we believe in it.
Skinny, but healthy looking models size 4 with perfect
skin, great complexion, with no dark circles under the eyes, sculpted abs and
curvy hips are usually the product of several hours of graphic’s work than months spent at the gym and in the
spa.
It is a mile step to see a plus size model, but what is it for, when retouchers
change their body to look
normal, let’s say a 12-14 size girl? Still those natural bodies are later
retouched. Cellulite suddenly disappears from a 20-size model’s leg, her waist appears
more like an hourglass shape… How to believe in what
we see?
In October 2015, a teen star Zendaya was applauded for calling out Modeliste
Magazine for what she felt was heavy-handed photoshopping of her images.
On her Instagram account, she explained: “I was shocked when I found my 19 year
old hips and torso quite manipulated,” and the images edited in this way “create the unrealistic ideals of beauty that
we have.”
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-3284750/Zendaya-slams-fashion-magazine-Modeliste-slimming-19-year-old-hips-body-prompting-publication-pull-entire-November-issue.html
Beyoncé protested against H&M in 2013, denying to allow
them to make corrections to her body after the H&M’s swimwear line photoshoot. That same year Lady Gaga occurred
against Glamour cover photo because her “skin looked too perfect”
and her “hair looked too soft.”
It affects men too. You guys should look like a lumberman,
have a six-pack on your torso and flawless facial hair. Just quick reminder of
Justin Bieber's session for Calvin Klein in 2015.
https://petapixel.com/2015/01/09/unretouched-photo-justin-biebers-calvin-klein-shoot-reveals-photoshop-enhancements/
Nevertheless, every year the situation becomes better. We can see it; for example, in Dove campaigns. The video
“Body Evolution” (2006!) aims to show how dramatically bodies are altered
for advertising through makeup and digital retouching.
Even in the Instagram era, when everybody is able to
retouch their photos to improve them and Influencers want to show the best side
of their lives, we encounter great social movements exposing the unreality of
what is shown in the media like “5 seconds transformation”
And that
is a TRUE life being.
In fact, all of our photos are
retouched, but most changes concern the change of lighting, correction of
creases and shadows. But sometimes we have to interfere stronger, like to take one model’s face and another one’s body, sometimes we have to “dress her more” because
of the sensitivity of the markets. A significant part of shades of lipsticks
presented on model’s lips is created by Photoshop, as it saves on the production costs.
However, the new law only prohibits the
alteration of body shape and will not be applied to retouched hair or skin.
Does it mean that we
can still show the world a bit overstated? Or maybe the new rules will expand
with a generally improved reality? That would mean we will have to add a huge warning label mentioned before on a front cover of
our catalogues ;)
Hopefully we will use
more natural shootings and promote real healthy living.
- What is your opinion about retouching photos in ads? Do you think that the new law in France will change something indeed?
- Have you had any experience related to the retouching deception?
Thankfully I don’t have any experiences with retouching deception, but I’m sure that is a common problem. But for me more terrifying issue is that people are so susceptible to advertisements or other type of mass media abuses. Why they relate their look or lifestyle to their own lives. If everybody have some distance to his own look or habits, then we can live without any special laws for fashion campaigns. Anyway, the marketing specialists are going to cheat on some other issue like photoshopping food etc.
ReplyDeleteIt would be great if everybody would have that attitude you are talking about.
DeleteBut unfortunately teenagers are the most vulnerable group affected by the environment, and how they develop their worldview at this age has a significant impact on their future lives. Therefore, it is better to view publicly all types of beauty, unmodified vegetables (which are not as flawless as the drawings in textbooks) and people with various health problems, so that we would not be strangely rethinking any departure from the "rule" later.
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ReplyDeleteI really like what France did. I ususally look at this problem from graphic site.
ReplyDeleteBut probably it will be good for all this girls with their problems.
New law probably won't change much although it's just first step.
Involvement of famous people is very important because their photos
are photoshoped most. And they are idols for young those people.
At work personally I'm not involved into this kind of graphics.
But my friend was a retoucher for playboy mag and it was hardcore.
90% retouche there. For main stars of course.
As you pointed, popstars and actrors could be very helpful in spreading the "natural look". It would be great if they were more confident and let their photos be spread with the least amount of make-up and retouching (like Alicia Keys)
DeleteWhat France is doing is great. It might not change anything (except the ads) in the first place but it will start the education of society which is a hard task.
ReplyDeleteI think everyone have seen advertisements. Any of them. To presume they are not "slightly" retouched would be foolish. Of course they are all fixed up because people want to watch beauty and identify with it. One would not want "HTC whatever" so much if it was advertised by some unknown mediocre bloke. However - lets add Robert Lewandowski, make him irresistible and sales go through the roof.
I think that it is normal that we see famous people in ads, that drives us to but things- sure. But if 50-something-years-old actress has a body of 30 that is what worries me the most. As you said, it is a really good first small step :)
DeleteWhat is your opinion about retouching photos in ads? Do you think that the new law in France will change something indeed?
ReplyDeleteGenerally I have never been in this situation. I don't focus on photos in advertising.
However I agree that there should be some note under the photo. If it's changed. No one wants to be tricked.
Have you had any experience related to the retouching deception?
As I wrote above this never happened to me.
As you said, it is good to be informed about any corrections.
DeleteBut what do you think: let's say someone offers you to take a part in a fotoshooting for an add. You get the job, you agree to further "graphic works" and then they show you your "new better, slimmer, more athletic version with perfect nose". What would you think in that kind of situation? (It is just an example :) you may be an example of a perfect figure and you probably do not need any retouching ;))
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ReplyDelete1. It is definitely step into the good side. Using photoshop for processed photos is widespread. It is ok if you do it for you, but if you prepare some posters with model? I would like the Polish government to do the same :)
ReplyDelete2. Obviously. I happened to do it. Fortunately on a smaller scale. But even if I did it, it's just a delicate retouch. On the other hand, I would be glad that it would not be allowed for commercial purposes
I think that Photoshop is somehow made for this job. Banning it for commercial use would be very difficult and disputed topic.
DeleteBut it would be nice have a tag on photoshopped photos as they decided in France:)
Pictures you are attached are very funny. I don’t like plastic ads. Commercial are very tricky, you prove that. I realize selling goods are very hard, especially nowadays but what you said is a one big lie and a lie has no legs so it’s only for short time, when customer realize that is not true what he bought. I believe that good companies truly selling good products, which looks real on ads. I haven’t had any experience related to the retouching deception. I’m not that type of person, I’m more technical. I prefer not to lie on front of people. I’d like to create amazing products, where there is no need to create fake ads.
ReplyDeleteWhat is so funny for you about those pictures? They were used as real commercials, so that is our reality. And we have to remember, that this is not a one-year-trend or something new. Photoshop have been used for many decades to improve reality, and now it is just an option to communicate people when exactly someone used it to change the bodyshape.
DeleteAnd if you are talking about good quality products, I would rather think about photos takan in a smart way. We all know, that it is all about lightning, your camera and the angle. Sometimes you don't need to use graphic programs to take a good, but tricky for others photo ;)
Haven't heard about France changing the law, but I'm 200 percent for it and I would sign myself on any initiative in Poland for passing the same bill. I used to feel pressure from all of the medias promoting superman and superwoman images with - as you mentioned in point - perfect skin, perfect body shape, perfect muscles. I personally do know at least two women, that were directly affected by '00 anorectic beauty promotion you mention and I do not want to see ourselves going back to such times ever again.
ReplyDeleteI'm glad people (less and more popular) take it seriously for showing it's not normal and fighting any signs of false beauty.
We need to fix the situation on system level, so that all the people can feel good with their bodies and do not fear being themselves.
Retouching is not bad but only if you know it is retouched. It's the same with product promotion in any TV shows nowadays in Poland. You just get an information before and after the show so you know it's been placed there as an advert. I can't see a reason why it would not work with photoshopped images too. Great article, thanks. :)
I have to admit, that you put it perfectly. Thatis exactly what I am thinking about that situation too :)
DeleteI do not like the artificial and strong retouching of photos. And not only people, but pictures generally. Each image that is called from RAW must be processed. And it depends on the photographer how far it will go. Sometimes they exaggerate.
ReplyDeleteHowever, if someone in his own newspaper decides to take such pictures should be able to do what he wants. It is us as a consumer who decides whether we will buy this magazine or a product advertised by a too skinny model. That's why I do not respect such bans.
I respect your opinion, it is always interesting to hear it from both sides. Nevertheless, we should remember, that not only "women's magazines" retouch their photos. Retouch is a kind of process after a photo was taken, as you said. And as you mentioned, there is a borderline which shouldn't be crossed.But still - graphics (in all it ways) is a kind of art...
Delete1. What is your opinion about retouching photos in ads? Do you think that the new law in France will change something indeed?
ReplyDeleteI think that nowadays most of the people are aware that all the ad photos are photoshoped and the take them with a grain of salt. Personally, I find it hard to belive what I see in most of the ad photos. I always like to catch a graphic 'bug', when you see to many hands in the photos or arm that doesn't belong to any person.
2. Have you had any experience related to the retouching deception?
If you count 'photoshop' done in ID photos then yes :) Unfortunately, photoshop is present almost everywhere.
I'm glad you are that aware of what surrounds us :) But i think, that still there is a huge number of people who don't even think about the process behind the photo they see.
DeleteGraphic bugs are so funny! Aspecially when they were spreaded in a well known campaign ;)
Well, it is very good change in law. I think that world is fullfill of fake pictures of people (especially of slim ones). For that reason many people are depressed, because they don't look like models. You can see in early centry, more models was like nowadays s+ (in egxample Marilyn Monroe) and then were no adds. No extra loose weight picture mode. I think that this is very good opportunity to show real beauty.
ReplyDeleteI did some adds like makink photos grey or something like that when I used to be a child :). That was just for fun
Yes, it is all about the canon of beauty. In the fashion era, when most of the designers are homosexuals the boyish silhouette is more promoted than female one. Hopefully we see good changes :)
DeletePersonally I have bo regrets that companies wants to advertise their products. Expensive, shiny watch looks really good on a hand of famous football player. Branded underwear must present perfect, but only on muscular body of a model, or even better - on famous person. I think that's the market law. I am also aware of fact, that people could take pattern from this skinny girl in nice shirt and want to be like her. The new law in France can help because companies will be afraid of financial penalties.
ReplyDeleteSure, everybody wants to make campaigns which contain famous people and we want to see them too. Mostly they are good looking anyway, so real pictures will not shock us :) I am very curious of the new law results
DeleteAesthetic canons change as time flies and that's okay with me. Karl Lagerfeld refused designing clothes for obese women and Kate Moss said that 'nothing tastes as good as skinny feels' and, well, I can't disagree with them. I too prefer to watch skinny models and muscular male bodies than loads of cellulite. Promoting obesity and saying that being fat is okay could present the risk the other way, don't you think? On the other hand, turning not-so-ideal people into hot-shots is not okay - why not choose someone prettier instead?;)
ReplyDeleteI totally agree with you, that it is important to care about ourselves and our health, and promoting obese models could provoke someone to give up on a healthy lifestyle. And exactly- what is the point of making a photoshooting of one girl when they change the body for anotherone :)
Delete